A: The biggest problems with wood flooring is that it can be destroyed too easily and it takes A LOT of wood to make a floor. From The Forest has addressed these issues with our HDF Core products. By using 100% recycled hardwood to make our 2x more dent resistant HDF cores, and when coupled with our superior Wearmax XT finish the necessary size of the wood veneer is minimal. These innovations ensure that our customers will pay less for a more durable, environmentally friendly floor all at a lesser cost.

A: Not to be confused with MDF or Medium Density Fiber which is usually found in laminates, HDF stands for High-Density Fiber which we use as the core material for many of our products. The HDF we use is recycled from excess hardwood veneers used on our flooring, we then mix it with a water-resistant resin and press it. This engineered wood product can be almost 2x harder than other wood flooring products and also can be up to 5x more resistant to moisture when compared to a laminate or other wood products in the industry.

A: No, HDF can vary in quality and performance depending on what it’s made out of and how it’s engineered. From The Forest, LLC has always used the highest quality HDF which comes from hardwood trees such as Hickory and Oak, instead of softwood trees such as Pine and Poplar which makes a big difference as to how the product will perform over time.

A: Wearmax XT is our ceramic based aluminum oxide finish that we use on almost all of our products. Our chemists have developed a way to make our aluminum oxide particles smaller so that we can add more per square inch of the boards which makes it more resistant to scratching. This is perfect for homeowners with an active family life.

A:

• Laminate: pressed particle or medium density fiber (MDF) board with a photograph of wood applied to the surface. Laminate flooring contains NO actual wood. It can be installed almost anywhere, using a click together or glue installation.
• Solid: Generally a 3/4” thick solid block of wood. It can be installed on or above grade by a staple or nail down application.
• Engineered: Engineered floors are better suited for areas where environmental temperature and relative humidity cannot be held to a consistent level. It can be installed above, on, or below grade using glue, nail, and staple or floating applications

A: Contrary to popular opinion, by using a thinner veneer of wood we can minimize the size of indentations that will inevitably happen during the life of the floor. From The Forest believes that having a floor that is more durable and that lasts longer is better than having a floor that will require numerous sanding’s because it can damage easily. This is also why our products that have the thinnest layer of wood and thicker engineered HDF cores carry the best warranties because of their superior performance.

A: Depending on the product, up to 65% of the carton will be full-length boards, the remainder will be random lengths starting at 12"-15” long. Also, most cartons will have up to two “row starter" and/or “end boards” for the installer’s convenience.

A: Our products have tested to be Phase 2 Carb Compliant for lowest possible air emissions and there are no added formaldehyde to our products. All of our raw materials are sourced from managed forests in North America.

A: The fire and smoke ratings received below were provided to us from a customer who arranged for the testing for a commercial application.

• Fire rating ASTM E648 :classified as Class I which means that the average critical radiant flux (W/cm2). From the Forest samples came in at 0.58 which is Class I.
• For smoke (ASTM E662) FTF samples need to be less than 450 for Dm Corrected. The FTF  samples average 318 & 343.

A: No. The warranty applies only to the original purchaser of the floor. As the purchaser, you must register the floor and keep a record of your purchase.

A: Our manufacturer's product warranty covers "wear thru of the finish and the construction of the product"  only.  We do not cover anything with the installation but we do recommend installation techniques and what the relative humidity and subfloor conditions need to be for a successful install.  We also provide guidance for radiant heat in the installation instructions.

• Hydronic heat: is water based heat. It is always a new system in a home, has floor sensors, has even heat and does not get too hot. For that reason, we know our HDF core flooring will not be negatively affected by hydronic in-floor heat.
• Electric heat: The heat is from looping wire or coils. Sometimes it is on the concrete subfloor or the pad that is right under the wood floor. Depending on the age and quality of the electric radiant heat there can be "hot spots" that occur in areas and the heat is often tough to regulate. For that reason as a national manufacturer, we cannot recommend our flooring be put over electric heat because of all the variables. That does not mean that electric radiant heat will be bad. Many of the newer systems are very good ... however, the homeowner or dealer needs to put the responsibility on the supplier of the radiant heat. That manufacturer needs to certify that their system is approved for use under engineered wood flooring.  If any issues occur they would be the responsible party.

A: Flooring should be allowed to acclimate for a minimum of 24 hours or until conditions are at normal living conditions and meet minimum installation requirements for moisture content. Relative humidity should be between 35-55% at all times during and after installation. 

A: You can use both a staple and a floating installation as long as the different installation methods are in separate rooms and divided by a t-mold or some other transition piece that will allow the floating side to float without restriction. Also, they need to be the same depth. e.g. 3/8" or 1/2". Be sure to follow installation instructions which will be packed with the flooring.

A: All of our products that have a 2mm veneer (or top layer of wood) can be sanded down a maximum of 1 time, but our 1mm products can NOT be sanded. We’ve engineered our 1mm products (Vineyard) to be 2x more dent resistant than average hardwood so that sanding should never be necessary. If you do experience damage over the years, you can screen and recoat (buff and coat) as many times as desired.

A: Installing a wood floor in a full bathroom is not recommended due to the high moisture associated with these areas which usually increase the potential for problems to develop.

A: The benefit of an engineered floor is that in most cases it can be installed directly over a concrete subfloor that is clean, flat, dry and structurally sound. Click on the Installation/Warranty link for more detailed installation guidelines.

A: Prior to installing the floor, determine where the trim will end. Determine the proper placement, and mark a line on the subfloor. During installation of the floor be sure to stop all materials at this line. Once flooring is installed, cut molding to length and check for fit. After proper fit is established, place a ¼” bead of construction adhesive (follow adhesive application instructions) to the subfloor and put the trim in place. If nailing, pre-drill holes in the molding to prevent splitting, cracking, or bending the nail. Be sure not to attach the molding directly to the both sides of the flooring in floating floor applications.

A: Please watch this Floor Muffler installation video! The underlayment will naturally try to roll itself back up. Place a weighted item at one end to keep the muffler in place. This will make installation easier!

A:

• Start by removing the old carpet, etc. including the padding and clean completely
• Measure the distance of the extended tread nosing beyond the riser
• Cut 2 x 4 for length and plan thickness to your measurements and nail or screw securely to existing riser
• Measure the starting step for height and length / cut - build and install your first flooring riser. Nail into 2 x 4 and nosing of existing tread
• Measure and cut modified flush stair nosing. Finish nail securely into place
• Measure / build your first tread. Dry fit to insure that you're satisfied with appearance and function
• Using a pry bar, force the tread securely forward into the attached modified stair nosing that is securely nailed into place
• Repeat step #4
• Finish your stairs by installing quarter round molding at the base of each step

View Installation here

Click & Lock

• Stagger end joints from row to row by at least 12". Avoid ‘H’ patterns, where planks just two rows away from each other end in the same location. Continue installing the second row and cut the last board to size just as you did in the first. After installing three rows, recheck your spacers to ensure that the proper 3/8" expansion space is being maintained.

• Stagger end joints (at least 8”) and randomly install different lengths to ensure natural appearance. Do not create discernible patterns such as “H” or “steps”. Select boards to create a uniform appearance without clusters of short lengths or sections of light or dark planks. Do not install any objectionable boards that have visual defects or are not consistent with the grade being installed

A:  All mats or rugs should be cleaned and/or replaced on a regular basis. They should also be moved occasionally to allow natural color changes caused by light to occur evenly in all areas. Never use latex or rubber backed mats; they will permanently stain the floor.

A: Hardwood flooring can become dull or cloudy looking over the years if you use a cleaner that has allowed a build-up of wax or other cleaning agents on it. If there is a build up from the cleaning products, full strength acetone can often do the trick. You would need to use rubber gloves, a clean, lint-free cloth, and be in a well-ventilated room. 

A: You can use full strength acetone or goo gone to remove the adhesive. Remember to change the rag frequently to avoid spreading the glue during clean up. We would recommend starting with a small area first and clean it directly with acetone ( 2'x2' area). Make sure the rag remains clean. If the rag gets build up on it, you will only continue to spread the glue around the floor. Once the 2'x2' area has been cleaned with acetone, then wipe it down with straight water (damp mop or rag, be sure not to saturate the floor). It will take some time and effort to remove all the installation adhesive or haze off the floor. 

A: The only approved cleaner for our flooring products is our From The Forest Wood Floor Cleaner. Our cleaner is environmentally friendly and will keep your floor looking beautiful. We do not recommend using Bona or any other cleaners on our products.

A: We only recommend our Hardwood Flooring Cleaner for stains and sustainability. If the Hardwood Cleaner does not remove a stain, we recommend full strength acetone to the spot. When applying the full strength acetone remember to use rubber gloves, a clean, lint-free cloth and be in a well-ventilated room. 

A: You can use code 3FREESAMPLES to get up to 3 samples for free! We just ask that you pay for shipping!

A: You can purchase individual full boards here on our website: Full Boards

A: Take the base of your wall times the height of your wall to get total square feet.

A: Measure the length of the base of the triangle and the height of the triangle. To calculate the area of the triangle use the formula: (base x height) / 2. Multiply the base by the height and then divide it by 2.

A: "The Alabaster Originals has an engineered hardwood veneer on an HDF core. You will see the natural grain of the wood behind the white face. These planks are 5.1"" W and have an interlocking joint profile. The Classic Shiplap has a bright, clean, white vinyl wrapped face on an HDF core. These planks are 7.44"" W and have the true nickle gap shiplap profile. Both options are peel and stick with our pre-applied adhesive."

A: Wallplanks can adhere to any surface that is flat, clean, smooth, dry and structurally sound.

A: Wallplanks can be installed on clean ceramic tile. Waxy, wet, dusty and dirty surfaces are the only surfaces that would cause adhesion issues.

A: Wallplanks are meant to be a permanent update to your walls. If you choose to remove the planks they could leave some damage to the wall underneath and/or cause paint chipping. The damage that is caused is not substantial and can be repaired easily with skim coating or spackle.

A: To remove Wallplanks you will need a putty knife or scraping tool, a heating device such as a hair dryer or heat gun, sand paper, cloth, water and TSP.

• Step 1: Use the heating tool on high heat while using the putty knife to slowly remove the plank from the wall. The heat will soften the adhesive and the putty knife will help scrape behind it to remove it. Do not move too quickly when removing otherwise the plank may snap.
  *please note that the plank may cause some damage to the underlying wall and cause the paint to chip due to the strength of the adhesive.
• Step 2: Use the putty knife to remove any excessive adhesive from the wall. The heating tool may also be helpful during this step
• Step 3: Use the sand paper to smooth any damaged surface/ chipped paint
• Step 4: Clean the wall with TSP and allow to dry completely

A:

• Starting with an end of row plank, remove the wall planks up to the one that needs to be replaced
• Remove the bad plank
• Trim off the profile of the boards before replacing
• 4Use either gorilla glue or nail planks back in place

A: It is recommended that all walls be tested with a sample prior to full installation. Heavy textured walls like knockdown or popcorn walls will require a skim coat application or sanding and scraping prior to installing Wallplanks. Plywood and unfinished drywall will require a coat of basic paint primer to be applied and dried first before installing Wallplanks. All other textured walls like crows feet, orange peel, smooth or swirl will should not require additional prep work.

A: Plaster surfaces should have a minimum of one coat of primer sealer prior to installation.

A: Yes, Wallplanks can adhere to vinyl. As long as the surface is flat, clean, smooth, dry and structurally sound.

A: Yes, Wallplanks will adhere to paneling. Wallplanks will adhere to a clean, dry and structurally sound surface. It is recommended that all walls be tested with a sample prior to full installation.

A: Clean, Smooth, well-adhered wallpaper: This can be a base for Wallplanks. The installer must make sure the wallpaper is clean and firmly bonded to the wall before applying the wallplanks to the wallpaper.
Embossed wallpaper: The adhesive on the back of the wallplanks is 1/32"" thick. If the embossing on the wallpaper raises out more than that it is possible that the Wallplanks adhesion will be interrupted every time it goes over the embossing. This could result in less than a firm bond. The installer will need to test bond strength with several Wallplanks to ensure adhesive bond strength to the embossed wallpaper before proceeding with the entire installation. If bond strength is not sufficient, the wallpaper will have to be removed prior to installing the wallplanks.
Textured wallpaper: should be removed and the base wall cleaned with trisodium phosphate (TSP) before installing Wallplanks. To remove wallpaper there are steamers or wallpaper removal solutions available. These items plus the TSP cleaner are available in hardware stores or home centers.

A: Yes, Wallplanks can be installed over a mirrored surface as long as the mirror is cleaned prior to installation and a J-roller is used when applying the Wallplanks.

A: Follow local code. As long as the immediate surrounding of the fireplace opening is nonflammable Wallplanks can be installed on the sides of that, around and above.

A: Yes, Wallplanks make a beautiful updated kitchen back splash! They have been tested at temperatures of 140 degrees and the adhesive has stayed intact. You can see examples on the Charcoal Originals product page.

A: Yes, Wallplanks are water resistant and can be installed in a full bathroom. Additional nail down may be required.

A: No, Wallplanks should not be installed inside shower walls or right directly above the shower stall. Wallplanks are made from real engineered hardwood and are not waterproof.

A: Our wallplanks are one of the best products you can use for wall panel ceiling applications. They are light weight, thin and very easy to apply. Just peel & stick to the ceiling then use brad nails as reinforcement per the installation instructions. There is no need to hold the plank in place while trying to nail because the pre-applied adhesive eliminates that headache! For extra assurance and added protection, apply primer to your wall prior to installation and use a nail gun with 1" brad nails in addition to the VacuuBond pre-applied adhesive If needed, you may use some filler and a touch up marker to blend the nail hole in with the finish! Follow the installation instructions that are shipped with the product. Step 11 is for ceilings and indicates to use 18 gauge finish nails every 16" on both sides of the plank to further secure the planks to the ceilings.

A: No, Wallplanks cannot be installed in an outdoor setting. The veneer and HDF core is made from real wood and will therefore absorb moisture. Wallplanks are only approved for indoor installations.

A: To install Wallplanks you will need a J-roller, TSP (trisodium phosphate) for cleaning sub wall, tape measure, 4' level, a straight edge, and a pencil. Possible cutting tools include a utility knife, hand saw, jig saw, circular saw, or miter saw.

A: Clean & Dry the Wall surface. Turn off power to installation area while working around wall outlets and light switches. Remove electrical cover plates, protruding nails and loose paint. Sponge wash with TSP (trisodium phosphate), available in hardware stores or home centers, to remove residues of greasy grime, mildew, chalked paint or anything that might affect the bond of the VacuuBondTM adhesive. If wall has a heavy drywall texture, it will need to be block sanded and primed so the VacuuBondTM adhesive can achieve a firm bond. Wallplanks can be installed over well bonded smooth wallpaper. Textured wallpaper should be removed and wall cleaned with TSP prior to installing wallplanks. After the wall are thoroughly cleaned, the walls also must be thoroughly dried.

A: Plywood and unfinished drywall will require a coat of basic paint primer applied and dried first before installing Wallplanks.

A: No, additional reinforcements are not required when installing Wallplanks as long as the installation instructions are followed. We have 100% confidence in the strength of our VacuuBond adhesive. If you elect to use nails as added protection when adhering your Wallplanks to the wall, any nails that come in contact with a stud would be more secure than nails that do not come in contact with a stud.

A: The length of time it takes to install Wallplanks depends on how big your wall is. A small accent wall would take no more than a few hours to complete. For larger walls, you could make a fun weekend project out of this!

A: To install Wallplanks on an uneven surface you need to trace the uneven ceiling and or floor and rip cut your Wallplanks to fit the uneven surface.

A: Measure and trace the obstruction with a straight edge and pencil on the planks before removing the paper liner from the glue. Cut the traced obstruction space on the planks using a jig, hand or scroll saw. Place the cut Wallplanks over the obstruction to ensure a proper fit. Remove the release paper and install. Don't forget to use the J-roller.

A: See our image below on how to stagger the Wallplanks. The rule of thumb is 12" minimum offset. The goal is to not repeat or line up offset lines for at least every 3-4 rows. Try to avoid having boards that are shorter than 12" in your pattern. https://tawk.link/5aabe77c4b401e45400dcb99/a/5bb3c0743835730e8e0fa8d7/553378e2cdbc20f86394ca4bbd769ee0732f558a/image.png

A: Wallplanks are not load bearing. Wall Décor like mirrors, pictures, shelves can be mounted by drilling through the Wallplanks provided the underlying wall provides sufficient support (i.e. wall studs). Use proper hardware to install any wall décor.

A: We are 100% confident in the strength of the VacuuBond adhesive and have not had any issues to date that have not been related to pre-installation sub wall preparation or failure to use a J-roller. Below is a list of a few reasons why this could be happening:
Solutions:

• Secure the planks that are releasing by using a brad nail and a bit of filler putty or a furniture marker to blend in over the nails.
• Secure the planks using another commercially available adhesive such as Liquid Nails, or Gorilla Glue to adhere to the planks where they have been released. Make sure to apply pressure for a good amount of time so the adhesive can properly bond.
Additionally, I would like to elaborate that we are 100% confident in the strength of the VacuuBond adhesive and have not had any issues to date that have not been related to pre-installation sub wall preparation or failure to use a J-roller. Below is a list of a few reasons why this could be happening:
• If a J-Roller was not used immediately after installing every plank on the wall, the adhesive did not get the opportunity to adhere to the sub-wall. VacuuBond adhesive is time and pressure-sensitive industrial-strength adhesive and a J-Roller is a very crucial step during the installation process.
• If the sub-wall is not cleaned with TSP before your installation, there could but dirt, dust, grease, or grime that is making it difficult for the adhesive to adhere to the wall.
• If the sub-wall is not completely dry before your installation, the adhesive will not adhere properly to the wall.
• If the sub wall that you applied your Wallplanks to has a heavy texture, the planks may not adhere well. Surfaces with a heavy texture must either be sanded or skim coated and primed before installation to avoid adhesion issues. If you are installing on plywood, or unfinished drywall, those surfaces should have been primed before installation.
• If the sub wall that you applied your Wallplanks to is not structurally sound, the adhesive may not adhere well.
• If permanent HVAC is not maintained between 60 degrees and 75 degrees with a relative humidity between 30-55% for a minimum of 14 days before installation as well as during installation to ensure proper adhesion.
• If there was not 1/4 “ expansion space left around the perimeter of the Wallplanks installation
• If the Wallplanks are installed in a full bathroom and there was no additional nailing down.

A: The veneer is a thin decorative covering of fine wood applied to the front face and the back face of our environmentally friendly HDF core.

A: Classic Shiplap boards have a built-in feature called "Wall Flex" that helps each board to contour to slightly out of flat walls. The product is not designed to flex around or over architecturally contoured or curved walls.

A: "To remove excess adhesive from the Wallplank veneer simply use Goo Gone! Finishing nails should only be used for wood subwalls."

A: We offer trim that can be nailed down. You can find trim by following this link to our website: https://www.wallplanks.com/collections/trim

A: It depends on how round your corner is. If it is not too round, you can accomplish this by installing trim! What you can do is measure the corner to verify.

• To measure, take a straight edge and put if flat to one of the walls so it is hanging at least 2” over the edge.
• Then, take either a ruler or a tape measure and put it flat to the other wall.
• Measure the distance from the end of the rounded wall to the 90-degree meeting point of the straight edge & ruler/tape measure. Please note this measurement and keep it handy. If the measurement is less than 1.25” then you should be able to accomplish this by installing two trim pieces on each wall.
• When installing the trim, make sure you use the measurement you made note of to know how far into the trim piece you should nail. This is to ensure that you are nailing the trim down into the actual wall.

A: On most Wallplank sku's there can be some pattern repeat in about every 16th board.

A: No, Wallplanks have not been tested to be sound proof. Wallplanks are acoustic dampening if an item were to hit the wall, similar to high heels on a hardwood floor, but no further testing or information is available regarding soundproofing.

A: The tongue side of the board has a protruding ridge and the other side has a groove that the tongue fits into. When putting up the boards it doesn’t matter which side is up as long as the boards are consistent throughout the entire installation.

A: You want to start where it is level. There are multiple ways you can establish your starting line. The most important aspect of establishing your starting line is to ensure that the first row of planks you install is 100% level. If your baseboard and ceiling are level, you can use one or the other to establish your starting line. If neither your baseboard or ceiling are level, you will need to establish a level line across the wall. With the use of a pencil and a 4' level, you can establish a starting line across your wall at eye level. DO NOT adhere the plank until you have it placed in the right position. Once the material is adhered to the wall it will be very difficult to reposition.

A: Vacuubond does not have a vapor barrier but we can sell a membrane primer which does if need be.

A:

• This product is far more durable and is even slightly flexible due to the fact that it is engineered. Those planks won't break easily.
• The VaccuBond pre-applied adhesive is far more advanced and successful than peel and stick 3M tape and it takes less installation time to remove one single piece of release paper compared to 3 strips for tape. (https://vacuubond.com/)
• This product is engineered in such a way that you will not need to worry about expansion or contraction with the shiplap edge profile.
• No painting required! There are no holes in the planks so you do not have to paint the underlying wall prior to installation or use a touch up marker during installation.
• The surface is smooth and easy to clean.
• This product is UV cured which is a very effective cleaning procedure along with the fact that it prevents the product from fading, stains and wear.
• 100% environmentally friendly and made in the USA.

A: Yes, Wallplank Originals unfinished SKU's like Unfinished White Oak, Unfinished Walnut or Unfinished Maple can be painted or stained. All other Wallplank Original colors are pre-finished and cannot be painted.

A: No, our Reclaimed Wallplanks are pre-finished and cannot be painted. We offer 3  Wallplank Originals SKU's that are unfinished and can be painted. The unfinished SKU's are Unfinished White Oak, Unfinished Walnut and Unfinished Maple.

A: No, our Dimensions Wallplanks are pre-finished and cannot be painted. We offer 3  Wallplank Originals SKU's that are unfinished and can be painted. The unfinished SKU's are Unfinished White Oak, Unfinished Walnut and Unfinished Maple.

A: Yes, our Classic Shiplap Wallplanks are paintable (regular interior paint will work). We also offer 3  Wallplank Originals SKU's that are unfinished and can be painted. The unfinished SKU's are Unfinished White Oak, Unfinished Walnut and Unfinished Maple.

A: Our raw materials are sourced throughout the USA and the final product is finished in Wisconsin.

A: https://www.wallplanks.com/pages/return-policy

A: As per our return policy, we are happy to honor a previous sale price within 14 days from your date of purchase with the exception of Black Friday or Cyber Week promotions. Your price accommodation will be honored by providing a personalized online discount code you can use towards a future Wallplanks.com purchase. This discount code cannot be used in conjunction with a current sale of 35% or greater.

A: You can make a return by visiting the Return and Exchange Policy page on our website: https://www.wallplanks.com/pages/return-policy
Please complete the return request form at the bottom of the page.

A: Kenny's response on 12/30/2020 : "I have seen what this customer has described before but it is extremely rare, in my 41+ years dealing with processed kiln dried lumber I have only come across this 2 other time and it turned out that it was not live power post beetles (PPB) that were creating a problem but they were dead and or mistaken identity to just pin holes in the wood.  But to answer the question yes, there are rare cases of PPB but it’s usually in solid ¾” flooring when I have heard of it happening.  New flooring is installed and finished, and then months or even years later, small holes develop.  These are emergence holes made by adult beetles leaving the wood.  Most hardwood floors have been dried and aged, but were part of a tree, and then board at one time. Since PPB only lay eggs in dead wood, the egg may have been laid in the mill or lumberyard, or in storage.  Once the wood planks are shaped into actual flooring, the egg, or larval beetles may remain in the wood and finish their slow development.  Depending on the species of beetle and the type and condition of wood involved, the duration of development may vary greatly.  Once the adult beetles emerge inside your home, the will find few or any partners to mate with, and will be unable to lay egg on the finished surfaces of your flooring.  Re-infestation is highly unlikely.  One way to check for activity is to place a piece of tape over area of concern.  If beetles are emerging, there will be holes in the tape.  If no activity is noted, a little sanding and finish work will hide the holes.  The rest of your home is not at risk.    In any case involving Pest Control, it is always best to call a Pest Control Professional.  I hope this helps."

A: Per our installation instructions, to ensure proper adhesion and to avoid future movement such as gapping between boards and cracking on the face of the planks, permanent HVAC must be on and maintained between 60 ̊ - 75 ̊ F with relative humidity in the home between 30-55% for a minimum of 14 days before installation, as well as during and after installation. To accommodate for any changes in humidity, allow 1/4" expansion space for every 10' of the wall on all side. You do not have to acclimate the planks to the environment but you should acclimate the environment to be suitable for the installation of the planks. If you are concerned and would like extra assurance, you may use a nail gun and brad nails in addition to the pre-applied industrial strength adhesive on the back.

A: For as many as 60 plus years, North America has tried to make a well balanced plywood core substrate out of pine, fir, alder, basswood, spruce and so on. The challenge with North American manufacturers is they are able to produce the product, but having a consistent platform and having a well-balanced substrate on a consistent basis has been a huge challenge. Also, North American manufacturers of plywood typically slice all veneers under the Imperial dimensions, 1/10”, 1/8”, and so on. These thicknesses are too thick to build a strong balanced product. The consistency of moisture content with rotary peeled technology, are not tight enough standards for building a substrate for engineered flooring . The plywood manufacturers in North America are very good at building construction grade plywood panels as building materials for home construction, this also goes for Canada, as well as South America.

A: For the temperature - if you're worried about the cold, we recommend adding additional nails in your installation process. That can assure your Wallplanks stick to the wall. Our office administrator installed Wallplanks in her cabin, and they've held up very well despite the cold Wisconsin winters

A: All of our floorings can be floated, stapled, nailed, or glued down. If you would like to install by gluing over concrete and in a basement, we reccomend "Bostik's best vapor" due to the fact that it offers a vapor barrier and performs well over concrete.

A: the BOGO60 percentage-off deals for cartons will result in about a 30% deduction from the overall total. This is because you are recieving 60% off on half of your cartons and are paying full price on the other half. However, you actually save sightly more than 30% when you have an odd number of cartons on your order versus an even number of cartons. (this is because the odd numbered carton is automatically included in that 60% off)

A: Yes, our wood planks (wallplanks) can be used over a laminate countertop or tabletop. However you must keep in mind that you may need to use an epoxy to finish it in order to maximize durability and minimize the likliness of gaps.